Our Journey to Granada
After spending two wonderful nights exploring Seville, followed by another two nights soaking up the history and atmosphere of Córdoba, my friend Arlie and I boarded another high-speed train bound for Granada for one night.
Our journey through Andalucía had been carefully planned to experience some of southern Spain’s most iconic cities before continuing north to Madrid. Each destination offered something completely different, and by the time we arrived in Granada, our expectations were high.
While most travellers immediately think of the magnificent Alhambra, Granada quickly proved to be much more than its most famous attraction. Set against the backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountains, this captivating city blends centuries of Moorish history with lively plazas, winding cobblestone streets, traditional tapas bars and passionate flamenco performances.
Although we spent just one night in Granada, it was enough to experience many of the city’s highlights. We explored the breathtaking Alhambra, wandered the historic Albaicín, and finished the day with an unforgettable flamenco performance in the caves of Sacromonte before continuing our journey by train to Madrid.
If you’re planning your own Andalucía itinerary, Granada is much more than a stop to tick the Alhambra off your bucket list. It’s a city best enjoyed at a slower pace, where history, culture and spectacular scenery combine to create one of Spain’s most memorable destinations.
Granada at a Glance
- Location: Andalucía, southern Spain
- Best known for: The Alhambra, Moorish history, Albaicín and flamenco
- Recommended stay: 1–2 nights
- Walking required: Moderate to high (expect hills and cobblestone streets)
- Best time to visit: Spring and autumn, although Granada is beautiful year-round
- Perfect for: History lovers, photographers, couples and independent travellers
Why Visit Granada?
Granada is one of those cities that effortlessly captures your imagination. While the magnificent Alhambra is undoubtedly the main attraction, there’s so much more waiting to be discovered beyond its ancient walls.
The city’s rich Moorish heritage is woven through every corner, from the whitewashed lanes of the Albaicín to the cave homes of Sacromonte, where the passionate sounds of flamenco echo into the evening. Add vibrant tapas bars, spectacular viewpoints overlooking the Alhambra and the snow-capped Sierra Nevada mountains, and it’s easy to see why Granada remains one of Spain’s most captivating destinations.
For me, Granada wasn’t just another stop on our Spanish itinerary. It was the perfect finale to our journey through Andalucía before boarding the train to Madrid, offering a wonderful blend of history, culture, scenery and unforgettable experiences.
Flamenco in the Caves of Sacromonte
Before arriving in Granada, Arlie and I had both read The Moon Sister, Book 5 in Lucinda Riley’s much-loved The Seven Sisters series. Much of Tiggy’s story unfolds among the gypsy community and caves of Sacromonte, so visiting this historic hillside had been high on our wish list long before we arrived.
We’d already enjoyed a wonderful flamenco performance in Córdoba, but there was no way we were going to miss experiencing flamenco in the place where it has such deep cultural roots.
The venue couldn’t have been more different. Instead of watching from rows facing a raised stage, as we had in Córdoba, we stepped inside a long, narrow cave where the audience sat on old wooden chairs lining both sides of the room. The dancers performed down the centre, only a few feet from us.
The intimate setting completely transformed the experience. Sitting just feet from the dancers, we could see every expression on their faces, every controlled movement of their bodies, and hear the rhythmic stamping of their feet on the timber floor echoing through the cave. There was no separation between the performers and the audience, creating an atmosphere that felt raw, authentic and incredibly powerful.
While we thoroughly enjoyed the professional stage production in Córdoba, our evening in the Sacromonte caves offered something entirely different. It felt less like watching a performance and more like being welcomed into a tradition that has been passed down through generations. It remains one of my most memorable experiences in Granada.
Visiting the Alhambra
The Alhambra is one of those rare places that genuinely exceeds expectations. While photographs capture its beauty, they struggle to convey the atmosphere that makes it so memorable.
Built during the 13th century by the Nasrid rulers of Granada, the Alhambra was designed as far more than a royal palace. It was a self-contained city where architecture, water, gardens and nature were carefully integrated to create a sense of balance and tranquillity.
Walking through the complex, it’s the craftsmanship that captures your attention. Delicate stone carvings, intricate Arabic inscriptions, geometric patterns and ornate timber ceilings reveal an extraordinary level of skill that has survived for more than 700 years. Every courtyard, archway and window has been carefully positioned to frame a garden, fountain or distant mountain view.
Perhaps the greatest surprise is how peaceful the Alhambra feels. Despite welcoming millions of visitors each year, the gentle sound of flowing water, shaded courtyards and beautifully landscaped gardens create moments of quiet reflection that are difficult to find elsewhere.
The Alhambra isn’t simply a collection of historic buildings. It’s a place where history, art, engineering and nature come together so seamlessly that it’s easy to understand why it remains one of Spain’s most treasured landmarks.
Where to Stay in Granada
For a one or two-night stay in Granada, I wouldn’t stay anywhere other than the Albaicín.
We chose a beautifully restored 500-year-old apartment called Breathtaking Alhambra View Balconies Albaizyn, and it became one of the highlights of our visit. From our living room, we enjoyed an uninterrupted view of the Alhambra. As daylight faded, the palace slowly illuminated against the evening sky, creating a view we never tired of. Sitting on the balcony with a glass of Spanish wine while watching the Alhambra glow was one of those travel moments I’ll always remember.
We caught a taxi from Granada railway station to the apartment, which I’d recommend if you’re staying in the Albaicín. The neighbourhood sits high on the hillside, and navigating the narrow cobblestone streets with luggage isn’t much fun. Once we’d settled in, however, the climb became part of the experience. Walking down into the city was easy and, after a few Spanish wines over dinner, the walk back uphill somehow didn’t seem nearly as steep!
The Albaicín remains lively well into the evening, with locals and visitors filling the narrow streets, restaurants and viewpoints. Eventually the conversations faded, the streets grew quiet, and we drifted off to sleep in our 500-year-old apartment, already looking forward to waking up to another spectacular view of the Alhambra.
What Not to Miss: Highlights of the Alhambra
The Alhambra is much more than a single palace. Spread across a vast hilltop overlooking Granada, the complex includes royal residences, defensive fortifications, tranquil gardens and spectacular viewpoints. Every visitor will discover their own favourite corner, but these are the highlights worth taking time to appreciate.
The Nasrid Palaces – The highlight of the Alhambra, the Nasrid Palaces are renowned for their intricate Islamic architecture, colourful geometric tiles, delicate plasterwork and beautifully proportioned courtyards. Every room reveals another layer of craftsmanship, from Arabic calligraphy and carved cedar ceilings to decorative arches that have survived for more than 700 years. While the palaces themselves are breathtaking, it was the precision and artistry of the tiles that captivated me most. The closer I looked, the more remarkable they became.
The Court of the Lions – Widely regarded as the heart of the Alhambra, the Court of the Lions is one of its most recognisable spaces. The marble fountain, supported by twelve carved lions, is surrounded by slender columns, graceful arches and richly decorated galleries. Despite the number of visitors, the courtyard still felt peaceful. I found myself lingering here, taking in the symmetry and imagining life within these palace walls centuries ago.
The Generalife Gardens – Originally created as the summer retreat of Granada’s Nasrid rulers, the Generalife Gardens are best experienced slowly. Their beauty lies not in grand sculptures or elaborate monuments, but in flowing water, fragrant flowers, shaded walkways and carefully balanced landscaping. The Court of the Water Channel, with its fountains and long reflecting canal, offers a welcome contrast to the richly decorated palaces.
The Alcazaba – The oldest part of the Alhambra, the Alcazaba was built as a military fortress and offers some of the finest views across Granada. From its towers, the rooftops of the city, the whitewashed Albaicín and the distant Sierra Nevada unfold below. Standing there, it is easy to understand why this strategic hilltop was chosen and to imagine the watchmen who once guarded the city.
The Viewpoints – Some of the most memorable moments come from simply pausing to look out across Granada. I found myself lingering longer than expected, taking in the contrast between the terracotta rooftops, the whitewashed Albaicín and the mountains beyond. It is a view that deserves more than a quick photograph.
Why Travelling by Train Is the Smartest Way to Explore Spain
If you’re planning to visit several Spanish cities, I genuinely believe travelling by train is the smartest, most cost-effective and least stressful way to get around.
During our journey through Andalucía, we travelled by high-speed rail between Seville, Córdoba, Granada and Madrid. Instead of worrying about driving in unfamiliar cities, toll roads, fuel costs or finding somewhere to park, we simply arrived at the station, boarded the train and relaxed.
Booking tickets is also far easier than many people realise. We purchased all of our tickets online before leaving Australia and stored them on our phones, so there was no need to print paper tickets or queue at station counters. Apps and online booking platforms have made travelling by train in Spain incredibly straightforward, even for first-time visitors.
One piece of advice I can’t stress enough is to book your tickets well in advance, especially if you’re travelling during spring, summer or around public holidays. High-speed services are popular and the cheapest fares are usually the first to sell. Booking early not only gives you more choice of departure times but can also save you a considerable amount of money.
Another advantage is that Spain’s railway stations are generally located close to city centres. You can often step off the train and be at your accommodation within minutes, making it easy to explore destinations like Seville, Córdoba, Granada and Madrid without ever needing a car.
After travelling extensively throughout Europe by rental car, ferry, cruise ship and train, Spain stands out as one of the easiest countries to explore by rail. If you’re planning a multi-city itinerary like ours, I wouldn’t hesitate to choose the train again.
A Few Tips for Travelling with Luggage
One thing to keep in mind is that you’ll usually be responsible for managing your own luggage. While most high-speed trains have luggage storage areas, you’ll still need to lift your bags on and off the train and, in some cases, onto overhead or end-of-carriage storage racks.
If you travel with large, heavy suitcases, boarding can be more challenging, particularly when the train is busy. My advice is simple: don’t overpack. Only take luggage that you can comfortably lift, manoeuvre and manage on your own.
When booking, choose the ticket class that best suits your travel style and, if possible, arrive at the station a little early. Boarding early gives you more time to find your seat and secure space in the luggage racks before they fill up.
Travelling light makes the entire experience more enjoyable. It’s easier getting on and off trains, navigating railway stations, checking into accommodation and exploring historic cities like Granada, where narrow streets, cobblestones and hills are all part of the experience.
Progressive Traveller Tip: High-speed trains in Spain have allocated seats, so there’s no need to rush for the “best” seat. Your priority should be finding the correct carriage, storing your luggage safely and settling in before departure.
Getting Around Granada By Bus
One thing we did differently on this visit was use Granada’s mini red buses, and I’m so glad we did. While they’re part of the city’s public transport network, they almost feel like tourist buses because they wind through the narrow, historic streets that larger buses simply can’t access.
We caught one from the stop opposite Plaza Nueva, and within minutes we were climbing through the Albaicín towards Sacromonte. It was an easy, inexpensive way to explore more of Granada without tackling every hill on foot.
Rather than walking uphill both ways, we let the bus do the hard work. From Sacromonte, we wandered back through the Albaicín at our own pace, stopping at viewpoints, cafés and hidden laneways before eventually making our way back to our apartment.
If you’re staying in the Albaicín or want to visit Sacromonte, I highly recommend using these minibuses. They’re frequent, affordable and one of the easiest ways to experience more of Granada while saving your energy for exploring the places that matter most.
Final Thoughts
This wasn’t my first visit to Granada or the Alhambra, but it was Arlie’s. While I enjoyed returning to one of Spain’s most remarkable landmarks, what surprised me most was how little I remembered of the Albaicín.
Staying in this historic neighbourhood completely changed my experience of Granada. Waking to uninterrupted views of the Alhambra, wandering its narrow cobblestone streets, and watching the palace glow from our balcony each evening gave me a new appreciation for the city beyond its most famous attraction.
Granada is so much more than the Alhambra. It’s a city best experienced slowly—getting lost in the Albaicín, discovering hidden viewpoints, sharing tapas over a glass of Spanish wine and ending the day with the passion and energy of flamenco in the caves of Sacromonte.
If you’re planning an itinerary through Andalucía, don’t make Granada just another stop between cities. Stay at least one night, base yourself in the Albaicín, and allow yourself time to experience the city that surrounds one of the world’s greatest palaces.
Continue Exploring Spain
Granada was one of the highlights of our journey through Spain, but it was only one stop on an unforgettable adventure. Travelling by high-speed train allowed us to experience the incredible diversity of the country, with each destination offering its own history, culture, architecture and local flavours.
Before arriving in Granada, Arlie and I explored the colourful streets of Seville and the remarkable history of Córdoba. After leaving Granada, we continued to Madrid, where we finished our Spanish adventure before flying on to Montenegro.
If you’re planning your own itinerary, these guides will help you discover some of Spain’s most memorable destinations:
- Barcelona Travel Guide – Discover how to make the most of a 12-hour stopover and why Barcelona deserves far longer than a single day.
- Seville Travel Guide – Explore magnificent architecture, colourful neighbourhoods, flamenco and one of Spain’s most captivating cities.
- Córdoba Travel Guide – Visit the spectacular Mezquita-Catedral, stroll through the Jewish Quarter and discover why Córdoba deserves more than a day trip.
- Madrid Travel Guide – Wander elegant boulevards, world-class museums, beautiful parks and vibrant food markets in Spain’s cosmopolitan capital.
One of the things I loved most about travelling through Spain was how easy it was to move between cities. The high-speed rail network made every journey comfortable and efficient, allowing us to spend less time travelling and more time exploring. If you’re visiting Spain for the first time, I’d encourage you to include several destinations in your itinerary. Together, they tell a much richer story of Spain than any single city ever could.
