If you’re travelling through Portugal, chances are Lisbon and Porto are already on your itinerary. Coimbra probably isn’t.
I don’t think Coimbra is particularly well known among Australian travellers, and many of us travelling between Lisbon and Porto simply stay on the train and bypass it altogether.
We decided to break our journey and spend one night in Coimbra on our way to Porto, and I’m glad we did.
Home to one of the oldest universities in Europe, the extraordinary Joanina Library, steep cobbled streets and its own distinctive style of Fado, Coimbra has enough to make it worth getting off the train.
You don’t need long here. For us, one night was enough. We arrived from Lisbon, spent the afternoon exploring, went to a Fado performance that evening and visited the University of Coimbra and Joanina Library the following morning before continuing by train to Porto.
If you’ve been travelling at a fast pace, however, I’d consider staying two nights. Coimbra would be an easy place to slow down for a day, catch up on some rest and give your feet a break before continuing to Porto.
Getting to Coimbra
We travelled by train from Lisbon, stopping in Coimbra before continuing north to Porto the following day.
One thing I would recommend is taking a taxi from the train station to your accommodation.
Coimbra is extremely hilly. While distances can look quite manageable on Google Maps, walking uphill with large luggage over cobbled streets is another matter entirely.
Save your legs for exploring the city.
Where We Stayed: Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra
We stayed at Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra, and this was one of those accommodation choices that worked perfectly for a short stay.
What we particularly liked was that it felt more like a small hotel than an Airbnb. There were staff on hand when we arrived, and they carried our luggage up to the apartment and back down again when we left — something we really appreciated given Coimbra’s hills and stairs.
When you’re a self-guided traveller, you’re constantly organising the next train, finding your accommodation, booking tickets and working out how to get from one place to another. Having someone take care of those little things for you occasionally is a blessing.
Our two-bedroom apartment was very well designed. Each bedroom had its own bathroom and a lovely view, while the kitchen and lounge formed a comfortable shared space between the two rooms. It was an ideal layout for two friends travelling together.
A light breakfast was included, which was perfect because we’d booked the earliest University and Joanina Library tour the following morning. We could eat before heading out without having to find a café open early.
The location was another big advantage. We were within easy walking distance of the University of Coimbra, Joanina Library and historic centre, so once we’d dropped our luggage, we could explore everything on foot.
When it was time to leave, the staff also organised a taxi to the train station for us. Again, a small thing, but one less thing to organise before continuing our journey to Porto.
For a one-night stay in Coimbra, I’d happily stay here again.
Our First Afternoon: Simply Exploring Coimbra
We didn’t arrive in Coimbra with a long list of attractions to tick off. After checking into Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra and leaving our luggage, we simply headed out on foot.
We wandered through the historic centre, followed streets without worrying too much about where they led and gradually got a feel for the city. Having the afternoon free meant we could explore without constantly watching the clock.
One thing you’ll quickly discover is that Coimbra is very hilly. Streets that look close together on a map can involve a surprisingly steep climb. Comfortable shoes are essential — Coimbra’s hills certainly give your legs a good workout.
An Evening of Coimbra Fado
That evening, we went to a performance at Fado ao Centro, which became one of the highlights of our short stay. We pre-booked our tickets because the venue is quite small, and with only one night in Coimbra, we didn’t want to risk missing out.
Coimbra has its own style of Fado, quite distinct from the Fado you may experience in Lisbon. Its traditions are closely connected to the University of Coimbra and generations of students who have studied here.
Near Fado ao Centro, look out for the bronze Tricana de Coimbra. The statue represents the traditional women of Coimbra known as tricanas, who were once serenaded by university students — a lovely connection to the city’s Fado traditions.
The performance was intimate and gave us an insight into Coimbra beyond its famous university and library.
Afterwards, we walked down into Coimbra’s lower town for dinner before making our way back to our accommodation.
Fado, dinner and an evening walk through Coimbra was a simple way to spend the night, but exactly what we enjoyed about staying here. We had time to experience the city rather than simply pass through it.
The Next Morning: University of Coimbra & Joanina Library
The main attraction we wanted to see in Coimbra was the University of Coimbra and Joanina Library, so we organised our tickets the afternoon we arrived.
Buy Your Tickets in Advance
We bought our tickets from the University Information and Ticket Office on Rua Larga the afternoon before our visit and booked the first Joanina Library entry the following morning. What we didn’t do — and should have — was ask exactly where we needed to go the next morning.
Progressive Traveller Tip: When you buy or collect your tickets, ask the staff to show you exactly where you need to go for your timed Joanina Library entry. Don’t assume it will be obvious.
Finding the Joanina Library Entrance
After an early breakfast at Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra, we walked back up to the university.
Your ticket has a specific time for entering the Joanina Library, and you need to be there for that time. The other areas included with your ticket can generally be visited afterwards.
The important detail we hadn’t realised is that entrance to the Joanina Library building is through the Academic Prison. Entry is limited to 50 people every 20 minutes, so if you miss your allocated time, you can lose your opportunity to enter.
Give yourself plenty of time to find it. We had the first visit of the morning, and this wasn’t the moment we wanted to be wandering around trying to work out where to go.
Inside the Joanina Library
Once inside, you’ll understand why the Joanina Library is considered one of Coimbra’s must-see attractions.
Completed in 1728, this magnificent Baroque library holds around 60,000 books dating from the 16th to 18th centuries.
The Noble Floor is the highlight, with three grand rooms filled with elaborate two-storey bookshelves, gilded carvings and painted ceilings. As you move through the rooms, the shelving changes from black and gold to red and then green.
And then there’s the story of the bats.
For around 250 years, two colonies of bats have lived inside the library. At night they emerge and eat insects that could otherwise damage the historic books.
There’s a slight downside to having bats living above priceless furniture. At the end of each day, staff cover the tables with protective leather sheets to protect them from bat droppings.
It’s one of those quirky details that made the library even more memorable for me.
No Photos or Videos Inside the Library
Photography and video aren’t permitted inside the Noble Floor of the Joanina Library.
Initially, you might be disappointed that you can’t take photos, but it does mean everyone puts their phones away and actually looks at what’s around them.
Don’t Miss St Michael’s Chapel
Our ticket also included St Michael’s Chapel and the Royal Palace, both within the historic Palace of Schools.
St Michael’s Chapel is well worth taking the time to see, with its richly decorated interior providing quite a contrast to the darker, more imposing rooms of the library.
Don’t make the mistake of seeing the Joanina Library and immediately leaving. Allow time to explore the other historic spaces included with your ticket.
Then It Was Time for Porto
After finishing our visit, we walked back to Solar Antigo Luxury Coimbra, collected our luggage and checked out.
The staff had already organised a taxi to the train station, and from there we continued our journey north to Porto.
One night was enough for us, but we were very glad we stopped.
What Else Is There to See in Coimbra?
With only one night in Coimbra, we didn’t try to see everything. If you’re staying for two nights or have more time, there are several other places worth considering.
Santa Cruz Monastery in the lower town is particularly significant as the burial place of Portugal’s first two kings. You could also visit the Old Cathedral (Sé Velha), explore the University of Coimbra Botanical Garden, cross the Mondego River to Santa Clara-a-Velha, or visit Quinta das Lágrimas, associated with the tragic love story of Pedro and Inês de Castro.
Families might also want to consider Portugal dos Pequenitos, with miniature versions of Portuguese buildings and landmarks.
We didn’t visit these ourselves, so I can’t tell you which I’d prioritise. For our first visit, we were happy concentrating on the historic centre, Coimbra Fado and the university rather than trying to fit too much into one night.
How Long Do You Need in Coimbra?
For most travellers following a Lisbon–Coimbra–Porto itinerary, I’d recommend one night.
It gives you enough time to explore the historic centre, experience Coimbra Fado and visit the university and Joanina Library without rushing through everything as a day trip.
Consider staying two nights if your Portugal itinerary has already been busy. The hills and cobbled streets can be tiring, and an extra night gives you a valuable rest day before continuing to Porto.
Would I stay longer purely for sightseeing? Probably not.
Would I stay overnight again rather than travelling straight from Lisbon to Porto? Definitely.
Continue Your Portugal Journey
Coimbra was the second stop on our Portugal journey. We spent three nights in Lisbon, one night in Coimbra and three nights in Porto, which worked really well for us. It gave us more time in the larger cities while still allowing us to experience Coimbra rather than simply passing through on the train.
From Porto, we also took a day trip to Braga and Bom Jesus do Monte.
If you’re planning a similar route through Portugal, continue with:
- Lisbon Travel Guide – where we stayed, what we did and what I’d do differently next time.
- Porto Travel Guide – our next stop after Coimbra, where we spent three nights. Coming soon.
- Braga & Bom Jesus do Monte – our day trip from Porto. Coming soon.
For us, Lisbon → Coimbra → Porto was an easy way to travel through Portugal without backtracking, with each stop offering something quite different.
