Lisbon Surprised Me
My first impression of Lisbon wasn’t a good one.
Within minutes of arriving at our apartment near São Jorge Castle, my laptop backpack was stolen. Instead of spending the afternoon exploring Portugal’s capital, Paul and I found ourselves at a local police station filing a report so we could make a travel insurance claim.
For a long time, that incident overshadowed everything else about Lisbon. It would have been easy to leave thinking the city wasn’t for me.
Years later, I returned with my friend Arlie, and this time I experienced a completely different Lisbon.
What surprised me most wasn’t the famous yellow trams, the viewpoints or the historic buildings. It was how different each neighbourhood felt.
Bairro Alto, where we stayed, was full of restaurants, bars and people enjoying the city’s nightlife. Alfama had a much quieter, more local atmosphere, with washing hanging from balconies, neighbours chatting in the streets and preparations underway for the annual Festas de Lisboa celebrations. Belém, meanwhile, felt spacious and relaxed beside the Tagus River, home to some of Lisbon’s most famous monuments.
That’s when I realised there isn’t just one Lisbon.
Like many great cities, it’s really a collection of neighbourhoods, each with its own personality. Once I looked beyond my unfortunate first experience, I discovered a city that was far more diverse, welcoming and interesting than I’d first imagined.
Getting to Lisbon
Lisbon is Portugal’s main international gateway, with direct flights arriving from across Europe, North America, South America and many other destinations. If you’re travelling from Australia, you’ll usually connect through a major hub in the Middle East or Europe before arriving at Lisbon Airport (LIS).
For this trip, Arlie and I flew from Rome with TAP Air Portugal after spending nine days exploring Italy. Flying was the quickest and most convenient option, giving us almost three full days to discover Lisbon before continuing our journey north through Portugal by train.
Lisbon Airport is only about 7 kilometres from the city centre, making it one of Europe’s more convenient capital airports. Depending on where you’re staying, you can reach the city by taxi, rideshare, metro or airport bus. We chose a taxi, which dropped us directly outside our apartment in Bairro Alto. After navigating Italy by train, it was nice to simply load our luggage into a taxi and start exploring.
If you’re planning to travel beyond Lisbon, the city is also well connected by Portugal’s excellent rail network. High-speed and regional trains make it easy to continue to destinations such as Coimbra and Porto, making Lisbon an ideal starting point for exploring the country.
The Day I Learned Experience Doesn’t Make You Immune
This wasn’t my first visit to Lisbon.
By then, I’d travelled extensively overseas and considered myself an experienced traveller. I knew to stay aware of my surroundings and thought I was careful.
I soon discovered that experience doesn’t make you immune.
On my previous trip, Paul and I stayed in a wonderful apartment near São Jorge Castle. Unfortunately, my strongest memory wasn’t the beautiful neighbourhood or the castle views – it was having my laptop backpack stolen within minutes of arriving.
It was raining when our taxi dropped us outside the apartment. I normally travel with just a suitcase and my laptop backpack, but because we were flying on a budget airline, my checked suitcase was over the weight limit. To avoid paying excess baggage fees, I transferred some items into an additional carry-on bag.
Instead of managing two bags, I suddenly had three.
As we stood outside the apartment messaging our host to let them know we’d arrived, a young man carrying a map approached us asking in broken English, “Where’s the castle? Where’s the castle?”
I knew São Jorge Castle was somewhere uphill, so I pointed him in the right direction. Paul quietly told me not to engage with him, while a woman standing in a nearby doorway began shouting something at me in Portuguese. At the time, I had no idea why.
When the young man walked away, my laptop backpack had disappeared.
Only later did I realise what had happened. The question about the castle had been a distraction, and I now believe the woman was trying to warn me.
Instead of exploring Lisbon, we spent the afternoon at a local police station filing a report so we could make a travel insurance claim. Fortunately, my passport and other valuables weren’t in the bag, but replacing my laptop was an expensive lesson.
After leaving the police station, I remember sitting on the steps leading up to São Jorge Castle feeling angry, frustrated and worried. My biggest concern wasn’t the laptop itself – it was whether I had a recent backup of my work.
As a travel writer, your laptop isn’t just another piece of technology. It’s where your photographs, notes, research and memories come together. Over time, it becomes one of the most valuable tools of your trade, almost like a treasured family heirloom.
Losing my laptop changed the rest of that holiday, but it didn’t ruin it.
Looking back, the biggest lesson wasn’t about Lisbon – it was about travel.
Like many people, I assumed scams and distraction thefts happened to inexperienced tourists. I was wrong. Professional thieves don’t care how many countries you’ve visited or how experienced you are. They simply look for an opportunity, and sometimes that opportunity lasts only a few seconds.
If sharing my story helps another traveller avoid making the same mistake, then something positive has come from an experience that I once thought would define my memories of Lisbon.
Most importantly, I learned never to judge an entire city by one unfortunate experience. I’m incredibly glad I returned, because Lisbon deserved a second chance.
💡 Progressive Traveller Tip
Never leave your luggage or valuables unattended, even for a few seconds while checking into your accommodation. Professional thieves often work in teams, with one person creating a distraction while another targets your belongings.
If you become the victim of theft, report it to the local police as soon as possible and obtain a copy of the police report or report number before leaving. Most travel insurance companies require an official police report before they will consider a claim.
Where We Stayed in Lisbon: Bairro Alto
From 13–16 May 2026, Arlie and I stayed at Mansarda no Coração do Bairro Alto, a two-bedroom apartment in the heart of Bairro Alto.
Travelling together, we’d already discovered that two-bedroom apartments worked well for us. We each had our own bedroom while sharing a living area where we could relax after a day of sightseeing, plan the next day’s adventures and compare how many kilometres we’d walked.
We chose Bairro Alto because we wanted to be within walking distance of restaurants, bars and many of Lisbon’s major attractions. The location couldn’t have been better.
The location couldn’t have been better. The apartment itself was unforgettable – for all the wrong reasons.
To reach it, we climbed several flights of narrow stairs carrying our suitcases. By the time we reached the top, we were already wondering what I’d been thinking when I booked it.
Then we opened the door.
Instead of a conventional apartment, we’d booked a two-bedroom attic tucked beneath the roof. The bedrooms sat under sharply pitched A-frame ceilings, with the beds positioned so low to the floor that you had to be careful not to bump your head getting in and out. The lounge was much the same—you could only stand upright down the middle of the room, while everywhere else required bending at the waist.
Arlie and I looked at each other and burst out laughing.
When Reviews Don’t Tell the Whole Story
Our host had even left us a bottle of local red wine to welcome us, which was a lovely touch. Looking back, I suspect I’d spent a little too much time reading reviews praising the wonderful host and not quite enough time studying the photos of the apartment!
Rather than trying to find somewhere else to stay, we embraced it. It became one of those unexpected travel experiences that still makes us laugh whenever we talk about Lisbon.
It also reinforced something I’ve learned over the years: in Lisbon, location matters just as much as the accommodation itself. The city’s steep hills, historic buildings and older apartments all add to its character, but it’s worth looking closely at the photos, reading recent reviews and checking how many stairs you’ll need to climb—especially if you’re travelling with heavy luggage or have mobility concerns.
Despite the quirky apartment, I’d happily stay in Bairro Alto again. The location was outstanding and made it easy to explore Lisbon’s historic neighbourhoods, restaurants and nightlife on foot.
Exploring Lisbon’s Neighbourhoods
One of the things that surprised me most about Lisbon was how different each neighbourhood felt.
Rather than feeling like one large city, Lisbon is a collection of distinct neighbourhoods, each with its own personality. You can spend the morning wandering centuries-old laneways in Alfama, enjoy lunch beside the Tagus River in Belém, shop along elegant streets in Chiado and finish the evening dining in lively Bairro Alto.
If it’s your first visit, don’t try to see everything. Instead, spend time exploring a handful of neighbourhoods properly. Each offers a different side of Lisbon, and together they tell the story of one of Europe’s most fascinating capital cities.
Bairro Alto – Best for Restaurants, Bars and Nightlife
Bairro Alto became our home for three nights and, despite my rather questionable choice of accommodation, I wouldn’t hesitate to stay there again.
By day, the neighbourhood is surprisingly quiet. Small cafés open their doors, locals wander the narrow streets and it’s easy to forget you’re staying in one of Lisbon’s busiest entertainment districts.
As evening arrives, Bairro Alto transforms. Restaurants fill with locals and visitors, outdoor tables spill onto the streets and the neighbourhood comes alive with music and conversation.
Our host recommended Restaurante Alfaia for traditional Portuguese cuisine. We enjoyed our first dinner there so much that we returned a second time, which is always a good sign when you’re travelling. The food, atmosphere and friendly service made it one of our favourite restaurants in Lisbon.
Each morning we wandered to FÁBRICA COFFEE ROASTERS for excellent coffee and fresh pastries before setting off to explore the city. It quickly became our favourite morning routine.
One of the advantages of staying in Bairro Alto is how easy it is to explore the rest of Lisbon. We walked almost everywhere, but the famous Tram 28E was only a short walk away at Calhariz (Bica), while the historic Ascensor Glória funicular and Praça Luís de Camões transport hub were also nearby.
Progressive Traveller Recommends
- 🍽️ Restaurant: Restaurante Alfaia – Traditional Portuguese cuisine. We enjoyed it so much we dined there twice.
- ☕ Coffee & pastries: FÁBRICA COFFEE ROASTERS.
- 🚋 Nearest scenic tram: Tram 28E from Calhariz (Bica).
- 🚠 Don’t miss: A ride on the historic Ascensor Glória funicular.
- 👟 Stay here if: You enjoy walking, dining out and experiencing Lisbon after dark.
Alfama – Best for Experiencing Local Lisbon
If I were spending a month or more in Lisbon, particularly during the busy summer months, Alfama is where I’d choose to stay.
To familiarise ourselves with the city, Arlie and I joined the Best of Lisbon Walking Tour with Inside Lisbon. It proved to be one of the best decisions we made, helping us understand Lisbon’s history and giving us the confidence to explore on our own over the following days.
Alfama feels very different from other parts of Lisbon. Narrow cobbled streets weave between colourful buildings, washing hangs from balconies and neighbours still stop to chat outside their homes. It has a genuine local atmosphere that’s becoming increasingly difficult to find in many European capitals.
During our visit in May, preparations were already underway for the annual Festas de Lisboa, held throughout June in honour of Lisbon’s patron saint, Saint Anthony. Colourful streamers stretched across the laneways, ready for weeks of neighbourhood street parties, traditional music, dancing and the unmistakable aroma of grilled sardines. We experienced the calm before the celebrations, but I imagine staying here during the festival would be something special.
One of the highlights is Miradouro de Santa Luzia, where you can look across Alfama’s rooftops to the Tagus River and watch cruise ships arriving below. Just a short walk away, Miradouro das Portas do Sol attracts large crowds, particularly around sunset, and offers one of Lisbon’s best panoramic views.
Alfama isn’t a neighbourhood to rush through. It’s a place to wander without an itinerary, discover hidden squares, enjoy a coffee or stop for a glass of Ginjinha, Lisbon’s famous cherry liqueur.
For travellers wanting to experience a more authentic side of Lisbon, Alfama would be my choice.
Belém – More Than Just Portuguese Custard Tarts
Like many visitors, we went to Belém for one reason – the famous Portuguese custard tarts.
On my previous visit, I’d learned one important lesson: one tart simply isn’t enough. This time I made sure to order more than one. Fresh from the oven and lightly dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar, it’s easy to understand why visitors happily queue outside Pastéis de Belém, where the original recipe has been enjoyed for almost 200 years.
What I hadn’t appreciated on my first visit was just how much history Belém has to offer.
Located on the banks of the Tagus River, Belém was the departure point for many of Portugal’s greatest explorers during the Age of Discovery. Standing here, it’s easy to imagine the excitement and uncertainty as ships set sail to explore unknown parts of the world.
Portugal’s Age of Discovery
The magnificent Jerónimos Monastery was undoubtedly the highlight for me. If you only have time to visit one historic building in Lisbon, this would be my recommendation. Its extraordinary Manueline architecture, beautiful cloisters and rich history make it one of Portugal’s most impressive landmarks.
Just a short walk away you’ll find the Monument to the Discoveries, celebrating the explorers who helped shape Portugal’s history, and Belém Tower, which once stood guard over ships entering and leaving Lisbon.
Don’t Skip the National Coach Museum
One attraction that genuinely surprised me was the National Coach Museum. Even if museums aren’t usually your thing, the beautifully preserved royal coaches are unlike anything you’re likely to see elsewhere. The craftsmanship is extraordinary and offers a fascinating insight into Portugal’s royal past.
Getting to Belem
Although we caught a taxi from Bairro Alto, Tram 15E is one of the easiest and most popular ways to reach Belém. It departs from Praça do Comércio, Lisbon’s grand waterfront square, and follows the Tagus River to Belém. Once you arrive, all of the major attractions are within easy walking distance.
Belém feels completely different from central Lisbon. The wide riverside promenades, open green spaces and magnificent monuments create a much more relaxed atmosphere than the city’s older neighbourhoods. What began as a visit for a famous Portuguese custard tart ended up being one of the most memorable and historically fascinating parts of our time in Lisbon.
Progressive Traveller Recommends
- 🥧 Don’t miss: Pastéis de Belém—and order at least two.
- 🏛️ If you only visit one historic building: Jerónimos Monastery.
- 🚋 Getting there: Tram 15E from Praça do Comércio or a short taxi ride.
- 🚶 Allow: At least half a day.
- 🏰 Most surprising attraction: National Coach Museum.
- 📷 Best photo: Belém Tower from the waterfront.
Getting Around Lisbon Without a Car
You don’t need a car to explore Lisbon. In fact, I’d recommend not hiring one unless you’re planning to explore beyond the city.
Despite its steep hills, Lisbon is easy to navigate using a combination of walking, historic trams, funiculars, the metro and the occasional taxi. During our stay, we walked almost everywhere, using taxis and trams when the distance was too far or we wanted to give our legs a break.
Walking
Walking is undoubtedly the best way to experience Lisbon, but don’t underestimate the city’s hills.
One thing many first-time visitors don’t realise is that Lisbon is built across seven hills. Google Maps might tell you your destination is only 700 metres away, but it won’t tell you that you’ll be climbing a very steep hill to get there. Sometimes it’s worth taking a slightly longer route if it avoids a challenging climb.
The beautiful black and white Portuguese cobblestones are part of Lisbon’s charm, but they can become surprisingly slippery, particularly after rain. Comfortable walking shoes with good grip are essential.
Historic Trams
Lisbon’s iconic yellow trams are much more than a tourist attraction—they’re a practical way to travel between many of the city’s neighbourhoods.
The famous Tram 28E is the most scenic route, passing through neighbourhoods including Graça, Alfama, Baixa, Chiado and Estrela. It’s one of Lisbon’s most popular attractions, so expect it to be busy. If possible, ride early in the morning before the crowds build.
For visiting Belém, Tram 15E is the better option. It departs from Praça do Comércio, one of Lisbon’s grandest squares, and follows the Tagus River to Belém, making the journey part of the sightseeing experience.
Funiculars
Lisbon’s historic funiculars aren’t just charming tourist attractions—they’re still a practical way to tackle the city’s steepest hills.
The Ascensor Glória, linking Restauradores with Bairro Alto, is well worth riding at least once. It saves your legs while offering a glimpse into Lisbon’s transport history.
Taxis
We found taxis to be surprisingly affordable and used them several times, including travelling from Lisbon Airport and returning from Belém. After a full day of exploring Lisbon’s hills, hopping into a taxi can be money well spent.
💡 Progressive Traveller Tip
Don’t judge distances by kilometres—judge them by hills. A destination that looks only a few hundred metres away on Google Maps can involve steep climbs, flights of stairs and uneven cobblestones. Factor that into your day, particularly during the warmer months, and don’t hesitate to combine walking with trams or taxis to make the most of your time in Lisbon.
What to Eat and Drink Like a Local
One of the first things I do before visiting a new destination is make a list of local food and drinks I want to try. It takes the guesswork out of reading a menu, gives me the confidence to order something beyond the obvious tourist choices and helps me experience a destination through its food rather than simply ordering something familiar.
Here’s a simple guide to some of Portugal’s most popular food and drinks.
☕ Coffee Culture
Don’t ask for an espresso—order a bica, Portugal’s version of an espresso. Most locals enjoy it standing at the counter, often several times throughout the day.
If you prefer a milk coffee, ask for a galão (similar to a latte) or a meia de leite, which is closer to a café au lait.
🥐 Breakfast
Breakfast is usually simple. Fresh bread, pastries, cheese and ham are common, accompanied by a coffee.
Of course, no visit to Lisbon is complete without trying a pastel de nata, but don’t stop there. Portuguese bakeries are filled with delicious pastries and sweet treats that rarely make it into the guidebooks.
🥪 Lunch
A bifana (marinated pork sandwich) is the classic quick lunch, but it’s far from your only option.
You’ll also find:
- Prego – a garlic steak sandwich.
- Caldo Verde – a traditional soup made with potato, kale and chouriço.
- Petiscos – Portugal’s answer to tapas, with small plates designed for sharing.
🍴 Experience Time Out Market
If you’re travelling with family or friends who all want something different to eat, Time Out Market is well worth a visit. Bringing together many of Portugal’s best chefs, food producers and local specialities under one roof, it’s an easy way to sample a variety of Portuguese flavours without everyone having to agree on the same restaurant.
What I enjoyed most, however, wasn’t the food.
The large communal tables encourage strangers to sit together, creating opportunities to chat with people from all over the world. While Arlie and I were there, we ended up talking with a group of men visiting Lisbon for a wedding. We swapped travel stories, laughed together and shared recommendations for places to visit.
It reminded me that some of the best travel memories aren’t created by the places you visit, but by the people you meet along the way. That’s one of the reasons I’d recommend Time Out Market, even if you’ve already found somewhere else to eat.
🍽️ Dinner
Portuguese cuisine celebrates fresh, local ingredients rather than elaborate presentation.
Some dishes worth trying include:
- Bacalhau – Portugal’s famous salt cod, prepared in countless ways.
- Polvo à Lagareiro – roasted octopus with olive oil, garlic and potatoes.
- Arroz de Marisco – a rich seafood rice.
- Grilled sardines – especially during the Festas de Lisboa.
- Cataplana – a seafood stew cooked in a traditional copper pot (more common in southern Portugal but often found in Lisbon).
🍷 What to Drink
Portugal produces some exceptional drinks.
Try:
- Vinho Verde – a light, crisp white wine from northern Portugal.
- Douro wines – full-bodied reds from one of the world’s oldest wine regions.
- Alentejo wines – smooth, easy-drinking reds and whites.
- Port – Portugal’s famous fortified wine, best enjoyed later in your journey when you reach Porto.
💡 Progressive Traveller Tip
Before you travel, save a list of Portuguese food and drink names on your phone. When you recognise dishes on a menu, you’ll feel more confident ordering local specialities instead of defaulting to something familiar.
Don’t be afraid to ask your waiter for recommendations either. Some of my favourite meals while travelling have come from ordering the local speciality rather than the dish I originally planned to have. Stepping outside your comfort zone is often how you discover the flavours that become lasting travel memories.
Practical Tips for Visiting Lisbon
After visiting Lisbon twice, these are a few things I’d tell anyone planning their first trip.
🌡️ Plan Around the Heat
Lisbon can become extremely hot, particularly from late spring through summer. If you’re planning to explore neighbourhoods like Alfama or Castelo, tackle the hills early in the morning or later in the afternoon. Save museums, cafés or a long lunch for the hottest part of the day.
📱 Download a Few Helpful Apps
Before you arrive, download Google Maps or Apple Maps for navigation, along with Uber or Bolt for convenient transport around the city.
💳 Consider a Travel-Friendly Payment Card
If you’re travelling through Europe, consider using a travel-friendly banking app or payment card such as Up or another provider that offers low or no international transaction fees and competitive exchange rates. These cards also make it easy to monitor your spending in Australian dollars, lock or unlock your card if needed and transfer money quickly while you’re travelling.
Before you leave Australia, check what fees your bank charges for overseas purchases and ATM withdrawals. A little planning before your trip can save you a surprising amount of money.
💳 Carry Some Cash
Although credit and debit cards are widely accepted throughout Lisbon, it’s worth carrying a small amount of cash for small purchases, local cafés, markets and the occasional business that prefers cash.
When withdrawing money, use an ATM attached to a bank rather than a standalone ATM, as they generally offer better exchange rates and lower fees. Having both card and cash payment options means you’re prepared wherever your day takes you.
🎒 Stay Alert
Like many popular European cities, Lisbon has pickpockets and distraction thieves, particularly on busy public transport and around major tourist attractions. Keep your bag zipped, wear it across your body and never leave your belongings unattended.
If you are unfortunate enough to become the victim of theft, report it to the local police as soon as possible and obtain a copy of the police report before leaving. Most travel insurance companies require an official police report before they will consider a claim.
📅 Check the Calendar Before You Book
Before finalising your travel dates, check Lisbon’s public holidays, religious celebrations and festival calendar. Events such as the Festas de Lisboa in June create an incredible atmosphere, with decorated streets, live music and neighbourhood celebrations. However, they also attract large crowds, higher accommodation prices and increased demand for attractions and restaurants. If crowds aren’t your thing, choosing different dates may make for a more relaxed visit.
How Many Days Do You Need in Lisbon?
The answer depends on your travel style, but after visiting Lisbon twice, here’s what I’d recommend.
2 Days – If You’re Short on Time
Two days is enough to see many of Lisbon’s iconic attractions, including Alfama, Bairro Alto and Belém. You’ll leave with a good introduction to the city, but it will feel rushed.
3–4 Days – My Recommendation for First-Time Visitors
This is the ideal amount of time for most travellers.
Three or four days allows you to explore Lisbon’s different neighbourhoods, visit the major attractions, enjoy the local food scene and still have time to wander without constantly watching the clock. We spent three nights in Lisbon and felt it was a great introduction to Portugal’s capital.
5–7 Days – Add Day Trips
If you have a little more time, use Lisbon as a base to explore nearby destinations such as Sintra and Cascais. Both are easy day trips and offer a completely different perspective of Portugal.
A Month or More – Live Like a Local
If I ever based myself in Lisbon for an extended stay, I’d choose Alfama. Wandering its narrow laneways, shopping at local markets, enjoying a morning bica at a neighbourhood café and becoming part of the daily rhythm of the community is exactly the kind of slower travel I enjoy.
💡 Progressive Traveller Tip
Don’t try to see everything. Lisbon is a city that rewards curiosity more than ticking off attractions. Leave time to wander, stop at viewpoints, enjoy a long lunch and discover the neighbourhoods that aren’t always listed in the guidebooks. Those unexpected moments often become the highlights of your trip.
Best Time to Visit Lisbon
Lisbon is a year-round destination, but every season offers a different experience.
🌸 Spring (March to May) – One of the Best Times to Visit
Spring offers comfortable temperatures, longer daylight hours and ideal conditions for exploring Lisbon on foot. We visited in mid-May and found the weather perfect for sightseeing before the intense summer heat arrived. The city was already preparing for the Festas de Lisboa celebrations, giving us a glimpse of what was to come without the peak-season crowds.
☀️ Summer (June to August) – Festivals and Long Days
Summer is Lisbon’s busiest season. Long days, lively streets and outdoor dining create a fantastic atmosphere, particularly during the Festas de Lisboa in June, when neighbourhoods such as Alfama come alive with colourful decorations, live music, dancing and the aroma of grilled sardines.
The downside is the heat and crowds. Temperatures can climb well above 30°C, accommodation prices increase and popular attractions become much busier. If you visit during summer, start sightseeing early, stay hydrated and book accommodation and attractions well in advance.
🍂 Autumn (September to October) – Equally as Good as Spring
If I couldn’t visit in spring, I’d choose autumn.
The summer crowds begin to ease, temperatures become more comfortable and the city is still warm enough to enjoy outdoor cafés, viewpoints and long walks through Lisbon’s neighbourhoods. It’s another excellent time to explore without the intensity of peak summer.
❄️ Winter (November to February) – Mild and Less Crowded
Winter is generally mild compared with much of Europe. While you’ll experience cooler temperatures and the occasional rainy day, you’ll also enjoy fewer tourists, shorter queues and often lower accommodation prices.
💡 Progressive Traveller Tip
Before booking your trip, check Lisbon’s public holidays, religious celebrations and festival calendar. If you love festivals, June is an unforgettable time to visit. If you prefer a more relaxed experience with fewer crowds, spring and autumn are hard to beat.
What I’d Do Differently Next Time
Every trip teaches me something, and Lisbon was no exception.
Three nights gave us a wonderful introduction to Lisbon, but next time I’d stay at least four or five nights. I’d spend less time trying to see everything and more time simply experiencing the city, wandering its neighbourhoods, taking day trips to Sintra and Cascais, and enjoying the slower pace of life. If I ever based myself in Lisbon for a month or longer, Alfama is where I’d choose to stay for its authentic atmosphere and strong sense of community.
Be More Thorough When Booking Accommodation
Our quirky attic apartment became one of the funniest memories of the trip, but it also reinforced the importance of looking beyond the headline reviews.
Next time, I’d study the listing photos much more carefully, paying close attention to the bedrooms, living areas and ceiling heights rather than focusing mainly on the location and glowing guest reviews.
I’d also contact the host before booking to ask a few practical questions that aren’t always obvious from the listing, such as:
- Is there a lift?
- How many flights of stairs are there?
- Are the stairs suitable for guests travelling with large luggage?
- Is there air conditioning in both the living area and the bedrooms?
- Is the toilet located inside the bathroom or separate? When two people are sharing a two-bedroom apartment with only one bathroom, this can make a surprising difference.
I’d also check whether the apartment is located at the top of one of Lisbon’s famous hills. A beautiful location can feel very different when you’re carrying luggage uphill.
Experience the Festas de Lisboa
Walking through Alfama while preparations were underway for the Festas de Lisboa left me wanting to return. I’d love to experience the celebrations in June, when the neighbourhood comes alive with colourful decorations, music, dancing and the aroma of grilled sardines filling the streets.
Explore More of Portugal
Lisbon was only the beginning of our Portuguese adventure. Travelling by train to Coimbra and Porto showed me how diverse the country is. Each city had its own history, atmosphere and personality, making Portugal one of the easiest and most rewarding countries in Europe to explore by rail.
I’d happily return to explore more of Portugal’s towns, coastline and countryside.
Lisbon reminded me that first impressions aren’t always the right ones. The city I almost wrote off after my first visit became one of the highlights of our journey through Portugal, and I’m incredibly glad I gave it a second chance.
Continue Exploring Portugal
Lisbon was just the beginning of our journey through Portugal.
From here, Arlie and I boarded a train north to Coimbra, Portugal’s historic university city, before continuing to Porto, where we explored the colourful riverside, sampled the city’s famous Port wine and took a memorable day trip to Braga and the magnificent Bom Jesus do Monte.
Each destination offered something completely different, proving that Portugal is far more diverse than many travellers expect.
If you’re planning your own Portugal itinerary, don’t stop in Lisbon. Continue north by train and discover how each city reveals another side of this fascinating country.
Next in the series: Coimbra Travel Guide – Portugal’s Historic University City.
